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It’s been a while since I ate at radii, but I wasn’t surprised that the high quality of service remains. Unlike some hotel restaurants, which are all flash and no substance (though to be fair fewer and fewer of these types exist), radii has an air of decadence and elegance without intimidating. This is partly due to its large open space, set over five cascading, art deco-inspired levels, and the new addition of alfresco dining with inspiring Cathedral views. At lunchtime, tables remain linen-free, but in the evenings they are dressed to impress, only being upstaged by the dishes placed upon them.

Start with an entree of deliciously delicate tortellini of braised wagyu, wilted cabbage, speck, lightly crunchy peas, shallots and reggiano. Follow with roasted blue eye cod, the skin crisped to perfection, with plump fresh scallops, cauliflower puree, garlic spinach and soft leeks, or the ricotta and basil stuffed chicken, white polenta, ligurians, tomatoes and skordolia. Finish with the decadent ivory chocolate mousse with pistachio sponge, fresh raspberries and raspberry sorbet, or the toasted coconut parfait with ginger pirouette biscuit, mandarin jelly and caramelised pineapple that looks almost too good to eat. Almost. An extensive wine list is offered with plenty of variety.
Veda Wickens, January 2007